After our biking trip from Bariloche to Ushuaia (see Patagonia Biking), Donna, Alex, and Catherine flew home. Doug and I stayed to drive the truck and camper back to Puerta Montt. We planned on 2 backpacking trips for the way back and possibly a third if time permitted.
While still in Ushuaia we thought we should get a day hike in to at least get our legs out of bike mode and into hike mode. We chose a short, steep, very muddy trail to a beautiful Emerald Lagoon just north of Ushuaia. Felt good to stretch the legs after so many days of biking.
Dec 11th – 13th – Drove north along the Atlantic Ocean and then cut inland crossing the border back into Chile and over to Torres del Paine National Park. We ‘wild camped’ the entire way and found some great camp locations.
Dec 13th – Camped at visitor centre and beginning of “O” trek (which includes the “W” if you also hike to both Miadore Britanico and Mirador base de Las Torres) which we did. Enjoyed an afternoon in the sun and getting our packs ready for our trek the next morning. This is a trek that requires a bit of planning and booking sites from both companies early if you want to get the dates you want as well as the type of site that you want. I booked Las Torres campsites when they opened for booking in April and Vertice Patagonia in June when that site opened for booking. I also booked our park passes at the same time. January and February are the busiest months and campgrounds are full so hiking in mid-December definitely helped. Although there were quite a few people at the camps we did not see many hikers while we were on the actually trails until we got around to Paine Grande. Evenings in camp were nice as you would see the same group of hikers and could compare notes about your day and what you saw.
Dec 14th – First day of the “O” circuit. From Central to Seron 14.4 ks. Beautiful sunny morning with little wind. Such a change in weather from our biking portion of the trip. T-shirt weather, less wind, and yet still no bugs! Pretty easy hike, left at 8 am and in camp by noon. Mostly followed the river although high above it. Hot showers, quite windy for setting up tent but we managed to tuck in beside a hill that offered some shelter. Most campsites have showers, a kitchen for cooking, refugios with food available, platform tents set up, and space for your own tent. We found we were among the very few that brought our own tent, gear, and food.
Dec 15th – Seron to Dickson 18.6 ks. Another beautiful day, more ascent than yesterday. We could hear the roar of the wind as we were approaching the crest of the pass – it sounded like a freight train so we knew it was going to be strong. Still were not prepared for the force as we made the top and turned the corner with a stunning view of Lake Paine. I’m still amazed that I was able to stay on my feet. We only had to make it a short distance down before it eased off enough to stand without concern of being blown over. Once over the pass and down the other side to the check point the rest of the hike was relatively flat. I have to say that coming up to the ridge for our first views of Dickson Campground was absolutely stunning.
Dec 16th – Dickson to Los Perros 12.7 ks. Early morning light on the Dickson Glacier as we were starting our day and the hike to Los Perros. Gorgeous day and outstanding views. A lot of the trek was through forest but when we caught glimpses of the view it was spectacular. The camp itself was in the trees with no view. No hot water for showers and no food available so keep that in mind if doing this trek.
Dec 17th – Los Perros over John Garner Pass to Grey – 15.6 ks. We were advised to leave by 5 am to make it over the pass before the winds became too strong. They close the pass at 2 pm so you must be over and down the other side by then. Getting to the pass was not difficult, only 2.5 hours. We had just a bit of rain at the top of the pass and then it cleared again for the rest of the hike. The view of Grey Glacier as you come over the pass takes your breath away. You are so close and it is massive so you can’t see either end. It is 6 kilometres wide, 28 kilometres long and 30 metres high. It splits in two before flowing into Lago Grey. I apologize in advance for the number of glacier photos but it was just so damn impressive! The hike down can be treacherous to say the least, steep, slippery when wet and hard to navigate in the wind. Many suspension bridges to cross makes for a unique experience. A lot of up and down over ridgelines hiking along the lake before the campground. More people now and the camp area for tents was not as impressive as previous campsites. We splurged on a burger after our big day and it was so not worth it. Horrible food, glad we brought our own for all of our meals.
Dec 18th – Grey to Paine Grande 11.5 ks. A ton of ups and downs along the ridgelines next to the lake. Raining not hard but the tail wind was gusting up to 100 ks per hour which made for dangerous hiking along those ridges. There were times when the wind would hit my backpack and I would be 3 metres down the trail with me feet still trying to catch up. The next instant it would hit from the side and knock me over. Really tough hiking and glad to finally see camp.
Dec 19th – Paine Grande to Miadore Frances, then up to Miadore Britanico, back down and over to Los Cuernos Campground – 24 ks. Much busier campsite at Paine Grande as now you are starting to see the day hikers come by catamaran as well as those doing the “W” trek. Although once out on the trail we didn’t see many people other than the few hikers we passed. Raining and windy when we left camp in the morning then stopped by time we got to Frances. Still pretty socked in but decided to leave our packs and day hike to Miadore Britanico. Not difficult but lots of route finding through the boulders and rocks. Sheltered as the trail is mostly in the trees coming into the open in a few spots. Snowing at the top. View of the towers came and went through the fog but was actually great lighting. View of lake below was outstanding. Long down and then picked up our backpacks for the continued journey to Cuernos. Nice spot on the lake with platforms for the tents and free welcome drinks – very nice gesture! Later night then usual and pretty wiped from the long day.
Dec 20th – Los Guernos to Refugio Chileno 12.75 ks. Windy with a bit of rain but dried off right away. Quite warm, lots of climbing and a very beautiful hike following Lago Nordenskjold for a lot of the way before turning up the canyon towards Chileno. Lots of day hikers once the trail met up with the junction to Central. Herd of wild horses along the way. The camp was near the river in a small narrow valley and the tents were all set up on platforms in the trees. My mattress deflated during the night so not a great sleep.
Dec 21st – Day hike up to the Mirador base de Las Torres then back down to pick up packs and hike back out to Central and our waiting truck and camper. 15.4 ks. Up, up, and more up, last 1.5 ks very steep up winding through rock and boulders. So worth it, spectacular day and view of the towers and lake. Had the added bonus of a juvenile Condor posing on the rocks for us.
Dec 21st to 24th– Headed to border and the only groceries we could get at the convenience store that we were allowed to cross with were Ramen Noodles so that was dinner! Not the healthiest lunch and dinner. Drove as far north as we could and then pulled off behind a hill for the night. Turned off of Hwy 40 onto a back road to cross back into Chile at the Paso Roballo border crossing. The drive was stunning through Parque Patagonia. We camped about 90 ks south of Cerro Castillo.
Dec 24th – Drove the rest of the way to Cerro Castillo, bought gas, groceries and with the help of some local hikers and the gas attendant arranged for a taxi to Las Horquetas and the start of the Cerro Castillo Circuit. Incredible amount of beauty packed into a small area. Started hike around 11 am arriving at our first campsite at 4:30 after 18.5 ks. Three ‘boots off’ stream crossings. Rio Turbia campsite was on the river and beautiful. Had the entire place to ourselves. So much different than “O” trek. No reservations required and no people! The only downside to this backpack was that I didn’t have a sleeping mat. Mine sprung a leak on the “O” trek and we couldn’t find the leak to repair. Rigged up cloths, backpack etc. to make due for 3 nights – highly not recommended!
Dec 25th – Christmas Day! Raia Turbia – El Bosque – 10 ks. Once set up in camp we hiked up to a small alpine lake with icebergs floating in it and just enjoyed the afternoon sun.
Dec 26th – El Bosque-Estero Parada Access 11.6 ks. Decided to skip the next campground and hike out as the weather was changing when we got to the pass. Beautiful hike past Laguna Cerro Castillo with Mount Cerro Castillo in the background.
We caught up to a climber from Colorado and his local guide at the parking lot and they gave us a ride back to our truck and camper in Cerro Castillo. Had a great dinner and nice shower and sleep at the cabana.
It was great to do both hikes. Two very different experiences but felt we saw the best given our time frame and route back north. We totally lucked out in terms of weather, few bugs (horseflies in one camp), and the people we did meet were wonderful. All in all a fantastic experience.
Was also great seeing it both on bike (see Patagonia Biking) and hiking. Different perspectives and each a unique experience with slightly different terrain. In terms of photography much easier to stop and take a picture while hiking!
Dec 27th – January 1st – Decided to stay on Ruta 7 all the way back to Puerta Montt instead of the way we came down Highway 40 from Bariloche. Didn’t want to have to cross the border back into Argentina and then back into Chile. Really nice drive back with a few ferry crossings. We were back early so decided to cross over to Chiloe Island to do some exploring before returning the truck. Had a nice late lunch at a seafood restaurant Dec 31st to celebrate Doug’s birthday and New Years eve. Headed to the airport January 1st, 2025 to start the journey home.
